Paris – 7/16/2014

Well, we finally figured out how to solve the can’t-seem-to-get-up-and-out-of-the-apartment-as-early-as-we’d-like problem; this time, LouAnn and the kids got up early and went without me.  Turns out DAD was the problem.  Actually, knowing we needed early line placement to visit the Catacombs, LouAnn agreed to drag the kids out early and let me sleep in a bit.  Isn’t she the BEST?  By the time I showed up, just minutes before the Catacombs opened, they were snugly planted just 10 people from the front of the line.  Woohoo!

The Paris Catacombs are absolutely FASCINATING.  Now an official museum of the city of Paris, the Catacombs are the result of a few converging factors.  (I’ll give a brief and likely mildly inaccurate description of these factors, but if you’re really interested, go read about them:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catacombs_of_Paris)  In short, these ossuaries (that’s like the TENTH time I’ve used the word “ossuaries” today…) are filled with the skeletal remains of over 6 MILLION Parisians; er, FORMER Parisians.  They’re the result of two convergent factors:  over-zealous mining of precious Paris limestone to build the city and the over-crowding of Paris cemeteries.  With so much of the limestone removed under the city, Parisians began to suffer multiple, disastrous collapses.  The problem grew until Louis XVI finally took action in 1775 by establishing an Inspection of Mines service.  Concurrently, Paris cemeteries filled up.  So a plan was hatched to EMPTY all Paris cemeteries, moving the remains to the abandoned mines.  Voilà, the Catacombs.  Throughout the 1800’s, the remains were arranged into the museum-like display still existing today, as the Catacombs were fully mapped and visitors began, well, visiting.  Now it’s a wonderfully creepy walk through extensive tunnels, 20 meters below the city.  Well worth the wait!

From the Catacombs (and after, naturellement, a visit to the Catacombs GIFT SHOP), we moseyed over to the famous Rue Mouffetard for lunch at a sidewalk cafe.  Then back to the Metro for a ride to the Paris Opera House.  This impressive structure was, of course, the inspiration for the Phantom of the Opera story.  Impressive, indeed.  We had hoped to attend the then-running “Hunchback of Notre Dame” there, but it was just TOO pricy.  So we settled for a self-guided tour.  Absolutely beautiful.

After an afternoon rest at the apartment, we decided, this being our final evening in Paris, to have a relaxing picnic dinner on the lawn of the Louvre.  It was PERFECT.  The sun setting over the distant Champs-Elysees, our blanket spread on the perfect lawn, with the imposing and beautiful museum surrounding us.  Wonderful bread, cheese, and wine.  The kids playing soccer and trying to avert their eyes from the rather passionate and acrobatically-entwined couplets of lovers around us. We rested and laughed and felt very…..PARISIAN.  A perfect final evening.

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The early-risers in place – just meters from the entrance!

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Hatted in DISNEY attired, of course, from yesterday’s surprise trip.

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The mark of the first Inspector General of the mines, appointed by Louis XVI.  Can’t remember his name.

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Near the entrance, audio-guide in-hand.  Notice there are no BONES yet.

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One of mine inspection workers carved elaborate scenes out of the limestone on his lunch breaks.

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Bones, bones, bones.  The remains of over 6 million Parisians.

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He took a musket-ball to the forehead, it seems.

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An example of the huge caverns left by the many cave-ins.

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The nondescript exit…..

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….and, of course, the gift shop across the street.

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Paris Opera House

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The Grand Staircase

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Side note – Jack had to haul this ladder down the 78 steps at our apartment, then back UP, so he could retrieve his brother’s raincoat, which he had “accidentally” thrown on top of the courtyard roof earlier in the week.

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Real Frenchman!

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Outside the Louvre at dusk, ready for our picnic.

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The kids made a friend that night.

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From the Tuileries Garden – Place de la Concorde, Arc de Triomphe

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Notre Dame, during our late-night walk home…..

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